So retired means we get to think about those projects we always wanted to do.  I have decided I miss volunteering so I invited myself To help the Hampshire County Animal Control folks.  They are an inspiring resource so many people from all walks of life helping the animals and people in this community. 

I am putting together resources on this page available to people who can make use of them is welcome to them.  Just full disclosure I did the reading and writing but asked AI to edit for spelling, grammar, and to make sure the information i give is relevant and consistent with current research and hopefully understandable.  

If you have questions or concerns or a topic of interest please feel free to reach out to me. 

Thank you

Laura lauratotis@gmail.com

House-Training Rescue Dogs: Why "House-Trained" Doesn't Always Mean What You Think

I can't count how many times someone has called me after adopting a rescue dog and said, "We were told he was house-trained, but now that he's home it's obvious he isn't."

House-training is one of the most common concerns with newly adopted dogs, and much of the problem comes down to miscommunication.

The people surrendering the dog may honestly believe he is house-trained because he hasn't had an accident in their house for years. We often say that dogs don't generalize as well as people do. While humans think, "House-trained means any house," the dog may think, "Don't potty in my house. Every other house is different."

If a dog has spent most of his life in one home, moving to a new house often means starting over with house-training.

The Three Parts of House-Training

Successful house-training involves three separate skills:

1. Learning where it is appropriate to eliminate (outside or on a designated potty pad).
2. Learning how to tell you when he needs to go out.
3. Learning to hold it until he gets outside if you can't respond immediately.

Most people spend all their time teaching the first skill, but all three are important.

If you plan to travel with your dog or visit friends and family, intentionally practice house-training in new locations. Dogs don't automatically understand that the same rules apply everywhere.

Trust me—there are few things more embarrassing than walking your "house-trained" puppy into your uncle's house, only to have her sniff around for thirty seconds before squatting on his brand-new carpet.

(For the record, the puppy and I both slept in the car that night.)

Teaching Your Puppy to Ask

The easiest time to teach a puppy to ask to go outside is while you're teaching him where to potty.

Pay attention to what your puppy naturally does before needing to go out. Some puppies pace, stare at the door, whine, or sniff. You can reinforce those behaviors so they become the puppy's way of asking.

If you'd like something more obvious, you can later teach a specific behavior, such as:

• Ringing a bell by the door
• Barking at the door
• Sitting at the door
• Touching a target

The important part is that the behavior consistently gets the puppy outside.

A House-Training Protocol

Choose the location where you want your puppy to eliminate.

When you first arrive home—even before bringing your puppy inside—take him directly to that potty area.

Allow him to sniff around. Don't wander all over the yard. Stay near the designated potty spot and quietly wait.

The moment your puppy begins to squat or lift his leg, softly say your potty cue, such as "Go potty." Keep your voice calm so you don't interrupt him.

As soon as he's finished, quietly mark the behavior with "Good," then immediately walk over and give him a treat right there. Avoid calling him to you for the reward, or you'll be reinforcing "come" instead of eliminating in the correct location.

Then take him inside to explore.

At first, don't give him access to the entire house. Close doors and use baby gates so he stays in one puppy-proof room with you.

Take Your Puppy Out Frequently

Especially during the first few weeks, you'll be making lots of trips outside.

Take your puppy out:

• First thing in the morning
• Immediately after eating
• Immediately after drinking a large amount of water
• After play sessions
• After naps
• After chewing or resting quietly and then getting up
• Before bedtime
• Every hour or so while awake (more often for very young puppies)

If you have a very young puppy or a senior dog, expect to make a few nighttime trips as well.

Tips That Make House-Training Easier

Feed meals on a schedule rather than free-feeding whenever possible. Predictable meals lead to more predictable potty times.

Keep a simple journal of:

• When your dog eats
• When he goes outside
• Whether he eliminates
• How long after meals he usually needs to go

Patterns develop quickly and allow you to anticipate your dog's schedule instead of guessing.

If your puppy has an accident, blot it with a paper towel and place the soiled towel in the outdoor potty area. The familiar scent can help guide him to the correct location.

Special Situations

Dogs That Have Never Lived Indoors

Sometimes you know very little about a rescue dog's background.

My hound, Bluestone, had spent his life tethered outdoors with many other dogs. When I brought him inside, he lifted his leg and marked what seemed like every few steps.

Oddly enough, he was actually easy to house-train.

Because living indoors was completely new, there were no old habits to unlearn. Once we established a routine, he learned quickly.

Initially, we kept him in an outdoor pen and brought him inside only on leash. I also interrupted his constant marking during walks. He still had opportunities to sniff and mark appropriately, but he wasn't allowed to mark every object he encountered.

Today, I'd probably also use a belly band indoors during the transition period to prevent accidents while reinforcing good habits.  It took a couple of months but Bluestone was a special dog he not only lived in my house but spent time on extended stays with family, and friends, and working as a rodent detection dog in public facilities even restaurants.  Be patient and consistent you should get there.   

Laboratory Beagles

The most challenging dogs I've worked with were beagles rescued from laboratory settings.

Many had never had the opportunity to keep their sleeping area clean because they had always eliminated inside their cages. Some were even afraid of going outdoors.

For them, I used a large exercise pen containing:

• A crate with the food, water, and bedding
• Newspapers covering part of the exercise pen

This allowed them to learn that they could choose to keep the sleeping area clean.

I also placed some of the soiled newspaper outside in their designated potty area so they could follow the familiar scent.

Whenever they were loose in the house, they remained tethered to me with a short leash attached to my belt.

Puppies Raised in Crates

One pointer puppy had spent far too much of his early life confined in a crate.

He learned to lift his leg and pee out through the crate bars rather than leave the crate.

Fortunately, food was highly motivating for him. He quickly learned that eliminating outside earned treats.

Some puppies become so enthusiastic that they'll ask to go outside dozens of times a day just hoping for another reward.

Take them out every time they ask—but only reward successful potty trips.

Every Puppy Develops at a Different Rate

I've raised a lot of puppies.

Even when we do everything "right," accidents still happen.

In my experience, very active puppies often take longer to house-train. I suspect part of the reason is physical maturity. Sometimes they recognize they need to go, but simply can't hold it long enough to reach the door.

I remember one Rottweiler puppy, Torrie, racing down the hallway after the older dogs while leaving a trail of urine behind her. She clearly knew she needed to get outside—she just couldn't quite make it.

Interestingly, after a week-long camping trip when she was about six months old, she never had another accident indoors.

Some puppies seem fully reliable by eight weeks. Others may not consistently hold it until six months of age.

Focus, activity level, and physical development all seem to play a role.

When It's Time to Call Your Veterinarian

If you've been consistent for several weeks and your dog still isn't making progress, schedule a veterinary examination.  This is where that diary will be useful it’s all good information for finding a diagnosis.

Medical problems such as urinary tract infections, bladder abnormalities, or congenital conditions can interfere with house-training.

I once worked with a family who was ready to return their puppy to the breeder before discovering she needed corrective surgery.

Behavioral issues can also contribute. Separation anxiety, for example, commonly results in house-soiling. In those cases, the anxiety itself must be addressed before house-training can truly succeed.

Dogs That Hide to Potty

Some dogs refuse to eliminate outside, then sneak away and have an “accident” the moment you look away.

Often these dogs were punished harshly for accidents in the past.

They didn't learn, "Don't potty in the house."  They learned, "Don't let people see you potty."

The solution is patience.

Take the dog to his potty area, wait quietly, then return indoors if nothing happens. Keep him tethered to you so he can't sneak away.

The moment he becomes restless, calmly take him back outside.

You don't need to stare directly at him. In fact, some dogs relax more if you casually look away while keeping him in your peripheral vision.

When he finally goes, quietly reward him with a high-value treat.

You're rebuilding trust as much as you're teaching house-training.

Managing Accidents

Accidents are part of the learning process.

If you have an irreplaceable antique rug, roll it up until your puppy has gone at least 30 consecutive days without an accident.

When you put it back down, spend a few days reinforcing your house-training routine again. Remember, changes in the environment sometimes require dogs to relearn the rules all over again.

If you have wall-to-wall carpet, consider using waterproof floor coverings during the training period.

A friend of mine recommended inexpensive vinyl-backed tablecloths with the fabric side facing up. They're washable, reusable, and do an excellent job protecting carpet, although they can be slippery, so not for high-traffic areas.

Today there are also many commercial floor protectors designed specifically for homes with puppies or senior dogs.

Final Thoughts

House-training isn't just about teaching a dog where to eliminate. It's about teaching him where the rules apply, how to communicate with you, and how to wait until he reaches the appropriate place.

Be patient. Stay consistent. Reward success generously.

Most dogs truly do want to get it right—they just need us to teach them what "right" means in each new environment.

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Separation Anxiety and Separation-Related Behaviors

One issue that rescue dogs can be particularly prone to is separation-related behavior. There are several theories about why this occurs.

One possibility is that the dog is experiencing anxiety because of a sudden change in routine, environment, and family. We often don't know what the dog's previous life was like before adoption. It may not even have been the previous owner's fault. A traumatic event can be something completely beyond anyone's control.

For example, a dog could be home alone when a smoke detector begins chirping because of a low battery. Those repetitive beeping sounds were difficult even for my working bed bug detection dogs, and sound sensitivity eventually became one of our selection criteria for working dogs.

I also had a dog that was perfectly comfortable during thunderstorms until lightning struck a tree beside our car while we were driving. A ball of lightning flashed directly in front of us. After that experience, the dog became terrified whenever storms approached—even before we could hear the thunder. I have to admit I also came away from that experience with a healthy respect for lightning.

Another theory is that dogs with separation problems are more likely to be surrendered to shelters because their owners—or their neighbors—could no longer live with the behavior. As a result, adopted dogs may be more likely to have separation-related issues than the average pet dog. Unfortunately, this is something that is often difficult to identify in the shelter environment.

Prevention

Ideally, begin preventing separation problems before your new dog ever shows signs of distress. There is limited research on preventing separation anxiety in newly adopted dogs, but these recommendations are consistent with current veterinary behavior advice and are unlikely to cause harm.

• Bring your new dog home when you have several days to help them settle into their new routine.
• Avoid leaving the dog alone for long periods during the first few days if possible.
• Practice very short departures from the beginning so your dog learns that you always come back.
• If your dog is comfortable in a crate, practice having them rest in the crate while you move in and out of the room.
• If your dog is not comfortable in a crate, create a safe, dog-proof area instead. Remove electrical cords, toxic items, and anything valuable that could be destroyed. A baby gate is often preferable because your dog can still see and hear normal household activity.
• Prevent your new dog from following one specific family member from room to room all day. Encourage periods of relaxed independence.
• Provide safe enrichment, such as a durable chew toy or food puzzle, when your dog is resting alone.
• Keep arrivals and departures calm and matter-of-fact. It is perfectly fine to greet your dog when you return home, but try to keep your own body language relaxed and your voice calm. This can also help reduce overexcited greetings and jumping.

Identify the Cause

Years ago, if a dog barked, whined, destroyed things, or soiled the house whenever the owner left, we simply called it separation anxiety.

Today we know that several different problems can look very similar, including:

• Separation anxiety (panic when separated from a specific person)
• Isolation distress (distress at being left completely alone)
• Barrier frustration or confinement distress
• Boredom or lack of enrichment
• Incomplete house training
• Noise sensitivity or other fears that occur while the owner is away

Because the underlying cause affects treatment, the first step is determining why your dog is behaving this way.

Fortunately, this is much easier today than it was years ago. Use a video camera, indoor security camera, baby monitor, tablet, or similar device to observe your dog after you leave. Even a simple video recording can provide valuable information.

Dogs with true separation anxiety may:

• Bark, howl, scream, or whine almost immediately after you leave.
• Pace continuously.
• Pant, drool excessively, or tremble.
• Scratch or chew at doors, windows, or crates in an attempt to escape.
• Injure themselves trying to get out.
• Urinate or defecate because of panic, even if they are otherwise house trained.

Other dogs may appear upset but are actually frustrated, bored, or under-stimulated. They may bark, chew furniture, destroy toys, or make a mess without showing the intense panic associated with separation anxiety.

When Medication May Be Appropriate

If your dog has severe separation anxiety—especially if they are injuring themselves or causing significant damage while trying to escape—it is worth discussing the problem with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may recommend consultation with a veterinary behaviorist or prescribe medication while you begin a behavior modification program.

Current research suggests that dogs with moderate to severe separation anxiety often improve most when behavior modification is combined with medication, rather than using either approach alone.

While treatment is getting started, try to avoid leaving your dog alone long enough for them to panic whenever possible. Depending on your circumstances, consider:

• Asking family or friends for help.
• Swapping pet-sitting with a neighbor.
• Dog daycare or supervised day boarding.
• Bringing your dog to work if appropriate.
• Hiring a pet sitter for longer absences.

Behavior Modification

The goal is to teach your dog that being alone is safe and that you always return.

Helpful strategies include:

• Keep departures and arrivals calm.
• Practice crate training or relaxed independence behind a baby gate if your dog is comfortable with those arrangements.
• Teach your dog to settle on a mat or bed while you move around the house.
• Practice short "stay" exercises while stepping briefly out of sight and gradually increasing the time.
• Leave a special food toy, such as a stuffed Kong or food puzzle, that your dog receives only during absences.

Interestingly, many dogs with severe separation anxiety refuse to eat while their owner is gone. One encouraging sign of progress is when your dog eventually begins enjoying these special treats during your absences.

Reducing Departure Cues

Some dogs become anxious as soon as they see you pick up your keys, put on your shoes, or grab your coat.

Practice these departure routines without actually leaving. Pick up your keys, put them back down, put on your coat, then sit down and watch television instead. This helps teach your dog that these cues do not always predict your departure.

It is important to keep these practice sessions below your dog's anxiety threshold. If your dog is already becoming upset during the exercise, work with a qualified trainer or veterinary behavior professional to adjust the plan.

Gradually Increasing Alone Time

Your video recordings should tell you approximately how long your dog remains relaxed after you leave.

If your dog becomes anxious immediately, begin by stepping outside, closing the door for only one or two seconds, and then calmly returning before your dog becomes distressed.

If your dog remains comfortable for several minutes, start with a duration shorter than that and slowly increase the time over many practice sessions.

The goal is always to return before your dog becomes anxious. Progress may seem slow, but gradual, successful repetitions are far more effective than repeatedly allowing your dog to panic.

If Your Dog Does Not Have Separation Anxiety

If your observations suggest your dog is simply bored, frustrated, or lacking enrichment rather than experiencing true panic, focus on:

• Regular physical exercise.
• Daily training sessions.
• Food puzzles and enrichment activities.
• Appropriate chew toys.
• Calm departures and arrivals.
• Crate training or teaching your dog to relax independently.
• Providing enrichment throughout the day rather than only before you leave, so it does not become a signal that you are about to go.

When to Seek Professional Help

If you have been consistently working on your dog's separation-related behaviors for several weeks without improvement—or if your dog's anxiety is severe from the beginning—consult a qualified trainer or behavior professional who uses positive reinforcement methods.

Good places to begin your search include:

• International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC): https://iaabc.org/certs/members
• American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB): https://www.dacvb.org